Posts by author C H Kwak
Catching some rays (and looks) in Berlin's central Badeschiff. Photo: Anjeve
Summer in Berlin is glorious, but the heat can really get to you when the temperatures really start to rise. Air conditioning is virtually unheard of (including in hotels in Berlin), and the subways and buses start feeling more like saunas. When the thermometer starts rising, try these popular ways to cool down, local style. » Read more
Stroll through Moabit Prison Historical Park. Photo: Philip Cohen
I love Berlin for all its obscure corners and strange places. And some of the best “hidden” spots are actually out in the open, right on the beaten path. As my time in Berlin comes to a close, allow me to share some of my favorite urban oases. 1. Kunsthof Oranienburger Straße 27 Mitte On » Read more
Taking in the sights on Sunday night at GMF. Photo: tmszj
In 2001, a relatively obscure local politician named Klaus Wowereit proudly declared: “I’m gay, and it’s a good thing.” Berliners wasted no time electing him mayor, and he has been in office ever since. San Francisco may have boys with flowers in their hair, but Berlin is arguably the most gay-friendly city. Mayor Wowereit, affectionately » Read more
By C H Kwak in Berlin— Some streets in Berlin are so jam-packed with cheapo establishments that they deserve their own blog post. Falckensteinstrasse, in the fast gentrifying Wrangelkiez, is one of them. This Kreuzberg street, which intersects with the hoppin’ Schlesische Strasse, has a number of budget eateries worth checking out. Here are my » Read more
Sip away the afternoon at Prater in Berlin. Photo: Alper Cugun
‘Tis the time–to take a seat outside and enjoy a beer (or two) with friends. Going to a beer garden (biergarten in German) is a quintessential Berlin summer activity and should be on the list for any visitor during the warmer months. Among the many beer garden options the city offers, these four stand out: » Read more
Sweet vegan desserts at Die Rebellion des Zimtsterns. Photo: Conticium
I stopped being a vegetarian when I came to Germany as an exchange student in a provincial town—otherwise I might have lived on salad for a whole semester. Things are a little different in Berlin. Many restaurants offer vegetarian options, and there are plenty of joints that are completely meat-free. Here are some vegetarian and » Read more
Inside Another Country Bookshop. Photo: Ptwo
In a bustling, art and club-filled city like Berlin, there are always reasons to go out at night. Sometimes, however, you just want to curl up with a book. Here are four places I frequent to pick up English books, new and used. 1. Another Country (Bookshop) Riemannstraße 7, Kreuzberg Tel: (030) 6940 1160 Web » Read more
Find a seat for less at the Staatsoper in Berlin. Photo: Thorsten Mohr
When Berlin was divided, each side fostered its own set of performing arts venues. As a result, Berlin has not one, not two, but three state-sponsored operas today. Here’s a guide to divas, deception and drama—all so unglamorously affordable.
A feast at W - Der Imbiss in Prenzlauer Berg. Photo: Sami K.
Döner kebap, currywurst, burgers and fries… There’s no shortage of options when it comes to fast food in Berlin. But why compromise when you can sit down and have a square midday meal for the price of a latte? Here are five weekday lunch deals that won’t set you back more than €5: 1. W » Read more
St. Thomas Church in Leipzig. Photo: Ed Webster
Just over an hour away from Berlin by train, Leipzig makes for a great day trip. Whether you’re a classical music fan or a history buff, there’s plenty to keep you busy for a day (or, preferably, more). Here are some tips to help you have a good time on a budget in Leipzig: 1. » Read more
Type “Bordeaux” into Google and the all-knowing gods of auto-suggest will fill in “wine” for you. But I was inspired by my friend Emilie, a Bordelaise who doesn’t drink. She’d always told me there was plenty to do in Bordeaux that doesn’t involve red wine. I recently spent a week in Gironde, the French region » Read more
Cheapo-friendly chocolates at Leonidas in Brussels. Photo: Sebr
By C H Kwak— With plenty of Eurocrats flaunting their nontaxable income, Brussels can be a tricky place for Cheapos. But eating and shopping in Brussels don’t have to cost an arm and a leg (although they can, if that’s what you’re into). Let me give you a few splurge options–and their budget alternatives. Chocolate » Read more
Currywurst, grilled or fried sausage served with ketchup and curry powder, is a signature Berlin dish. Inspired by American soldiers eating steaks with ketchup, a certain Frau Herta Heuwer invented it in 1949 from her sausage stand at Kantstrasse 101 (where a memorial to her legacy shares the address with an Asian supermarket today). These » Read more
Madrid’s museums, Barcelona’s nightlife and Andalucia’s architecture attract throngs of tourists to Spain. The Basque region, on the other hand, has curiously remained off the tourist radar outside of Europe. Gorgeous landscapes, sumptuous food and unique cultural heritage are but just a few of the reasons to trek up north. I spent two glorious weeks » Read more
Berlin sightseeing bus. Photo by cosmus
Why shell out €12 for a “self-guided” bus tour of Berlin, when you can see the same historic sights (and more) on public transportation—and for a fraction of the cost? BVG, Berlin’s public transit authority, runs an efficient network of trains, buses, trams and ferries all over town. Use them for cheapo-style sightseeing: A 2-hour » Read more
Typography galore at the Buchstaben Museum. Photo by Sarah Lincoln
You’ve deciphered the Pergamon’s ancient Greek paintings, gazed at the Neue Galerie’s Expressionist works, and even rode a Trabi at the kitschy DDR Museum. Now what? According to the city’s official website, Berlin boasts a whopping 175 museums—one for every taste. For those of you who want to go off the beaten path, let me » Read more
Fancy desserts at Albrechts Pâtisserie. Photo: perhapstoopink
You know Germans take their baked goods seriously when the recipe for the famed Black Forrest Cake is strictly regulated by the state. Fittingly, one of the most venerable traditions in Germany is Kaffee und Kuchen, or coffee and cake eaten after an afternoon stroll. Finding affordable Kaffee und Kuchen is… well, a piece of » Read more