Florence neighborhoods
Duomo
You can't miss Brunelleschi's magnificent dome atop the rosy marble Cathedral. It's the obvious central meeting point and tourist hub of the city. Here, you're in the vicinity of practically everything: the Uffizi Museums, Palazzo della Signoria, the San Lorenzo Market and the Accademia.
The streets surrounding the Duomo cater to visitors, with generic, all-day dining (for a price) and exclusive shopping. The big guns in Italian fashion are located along Via Tornabuoni (technically closer to Santa Maria Novella), with several others on Via Calzaiuoli, Via del Corso. Borgo Albizi, which starts behind the Duomo is more of a boutique street, featuring handmade, original designs in clothing and accessories.
Sleeping in a hotel near the Duomo makes practical sense, as this is the center of Florence, making it simple to pop back to your hotel room at a moment's notice. Fortunately, several of our favorite budget hotels in the city are located in this neighborhood—some are surprisingly affordable given their location. (Also see this blog post about out favorite hotels near the Duomo for under €100.)
Oltrarno
The glorious Palazzo Pitti and the Boboli Gardens make their home in Oltrarno, which literally means "beyond the Arno river." Cross over Ponte Vecchio, and into the only chaotic street in this otherwise tranquil, residential area.
The bars around Piazza Santo Spirito are popular aperitivo places with the Florentines and far more casual than the cafés and bars on the other side of the Arno. (Here's a little guide to how to enjoy a nice aperitivo.)
Sleeping in Oltrarno makes sense if you want something a bit quieter and removed from the very center of the tourist action. Hotel options here are fewer, of course, than on the other side of the river, but the experience might just be calmer and more romantic.
San Lorenzo
Just northeast of the train station sits one of Florence's most colorful neighborhoods. San Lorenzo is home to much of the city's foreign-born population, many of whom man the stands at the bustling local market. The area is the cheapest place to shop and snack in the center of the city.
Peruse the stands wisely for real leather bags and accessories, and be on the lookout for fakes. The streets around the market are home to kebab stands and Asian markets galore, as well as cheap clothing and shoe shops. (Read our guide to shopping in the city's markets.)
Choosing a hotel in San Lorenzo is a great option, especially for budget travelers, as cheapo options abound. (Seriously, there are apartment buildings that house independent family-run pensions on each floor!) The quick proximity to Florence's train station make it convenient, and the neighborhood's local flavor makes it more interesting (and less touristy) than more central 'hoods.
San Marco
North of the Duomo, and home to the Accademia Gallery and David, parts of this area are flooded with tourists and tourist cuisine. As you head north, however, the streets widen out a bit, and there's a much more residential feel to the area.
Florence's university is also located nearby, which explains the few hipster-inspired bars, shops and restaurants dotting the 'hood. You're most likely to find peace and quiet in the northern part of San Marco.
Choosing a hotel in San Marco makes sense if you're looking for a quieter, more peaceful (and less touristy) sleeping experience. You might have to walk 10-15 minutes to get to the center of town, but you might find that the walk is worth it.
Santa Croce
Named for the Santa Croce basilica, which marks the center of this neighborhood, the south end of Santa Croce borders the Duomo neighborhood and swarms with tourists. The piazza itself is actually a popular spot for Florentines to meet, chat and then head elsewhere to eat. The parallel streets behind the church are relatively quiet, and slightly more residential.
Head northeast to Sant'Ambrogio, where Florence feels hipper, younger and much more real. Via dei Neri, a cross street on the other side of Via de'Benci, the southwestern border of the piazza, is lined with wine bars, specialty food shops and a few great osterias.
Choosing a hotel in Santa Croce can be a good fit for travelers looking to be fairly central, but also away from the tourist throngs.
Santa Maria Novella
Across the street from the train station, the area around Piazza Santa Maria Novella is perhaps the most varied neighborhood in the city. The somewhat frantic streets leading to the station get a lot of traffic (both automobile and human), while the other side of the grassy Piazza is formed by narrow, serpentine little streets, characterful buildings and top-notch shopping.
The 'hood is bordered by the river, the train station and the shopping street Via Tornabuoni. As such, this area suffers a bit of an identity crisis. One thing is for sure: once you're here, you're no more than ten-minutes away from anything else.
Sleeping near Santa Maria Novella is a no-brainer for travelers looking for quick-and-easy access to the train station at any hour. Booking a hotel in the area's eastern edges places you basically in the center of town.