Paris: How to spend a perfect (cheapo) day in Montmartre
Whether you are tracing the steps of artists like Van Gogh and Picasso, reliving iconic scenes from the film Amélie, or searching for an unbeatable view of Paris from the Sacre Coeur basilica, Montmartre is a must for any visit.
Incorporated into the city of Paris in the late 19th century, Montmartre was a district known for its bohemian spirit and, of course, cheapo liqueur and entertainment. Think absinthe, can-can dancing, and cabarets. It was the spot to be back in the day.
Related:
• The Best budget hotels in Paris
• Free walking tour of artists’ studios in Montmartre
Walking tour of Paris Montmartre
While much of its original bohemian spirit might be hard to find today, the streets of Montmartre are still worth exploring, and we’ve got some of the best budget options to plan out your day. Read on for our walking tour of Paris Montmartre neighborhood.
Getting there and getting started
Getting to Montmartre by the Paris Metro is easy. Either take Metro line 12 to Abbesses to get halfway up the hill, or take Metro line 2 to “Blanche” to start on the main boulevard, lined with the adult shops that give the neighborhood a bit of, well, let’s call it “flare”. Opting for the latter allows you a quick photo op with the Moulin Rouge before heading up rue Lépic.
Note: Avoid getting off the line 2 at Anvers, as this is where most of the buses and tour groups head up.
Climb to religious heights
The Sacre Coeur basilica, officially opened after World War I, is the crowned jewel of the district – it’s hard to miss. The area around the front of it is a buzz of activity as tourists photograph the city below after visiting the inside of the spectacular church (which is free to visit!).
After taking time to visit the church (note that photography inside is not allowed!), get a little perspective on the situation and escape the crowds by climbing the church’s 300 steps to the dome for just €8. The stunning views of the city are well worth the climb and fee.
Browse art on display
At the Place de Tertre, just west of Sacre Coeur, you’ll be confronted by the full brunt of the tourism industry in Montmartre. Waiters at the cafés dress in kitschy get-ups while beckoning you into their eateries to serve escargot and onion soup (no joke). It’s all fine, but far from memorable.
It’s the artists on the square that people come to see – and sometimes with good reason. These artists are vetted by the mayor’s office, which means they’re the real deal, actually producing their own work, sometimes in front of you. OK, it’s very touristy at times, but while some of the art may be a bit too “out there”, some of it is actually worth the often elevated price tags that come with them.
Cheapo tip: Don’t be afraid to negotiate on prices. These guys are prepared for it.
Release your inner designer
Located at the base of the hill dominated by Sacre Coeur, is the Marché Saint Pierre, an often overlooked attraction that is one of our favorite shopping districts in Paris. This giant fabric market is full of every sort of cloth and print imaginable. You don’t need to have a project in mind to wander the rolls and swatches of textiles.
If you need some artistic inspiration, the adjacent Halle Saint Pierre (they like Saint Peter up here) holds temporary art exhibits that are bit edgier and contemporary. Entrance costs €8.50 for exhibits, but the main gallery is free. Either way, it’ll be less crowded than the Louvre, for sure!
Load up on baguettes, sandwiches and decadent pastries at Grenier à Pain. Photo: jean-louis Zimmermann
Paris’s best baguette
When it comes to cheap eats, we love a good baguette sandwich in Paris. Fortunately, in Montmartre, you’ll find the Grenier à Pain (38 rue des Abbesses) which has won the prize for the best baguette in Paris twice. That’s no small accomplishment.
Armed with your sandwich(es) and hopefully a pastry or two, you can picnic in front of Sacre Coeur after making the ascent, or hide away in the green Square Suzanne Buisson by Place Dalida on your way up the top.
Coquelicot bakery has been a Montmartre staple since 1978. Photo: Marko K.
Quick and affordable lunch
For a coffee and croissant, or a simple affordable lunch, Coquelicot bakery is where everyone heads (24 rue des Abbesses). Located on Rue des Abbesses, a street choc-a-block with cafés, note that many of these eating options can be pricey, while the food is only so-so. At Coquelicot, the pastries are pretty spot-on, and we go crazy for Le Tigré, a financier cake full of chocolate ganache.
The lunch menu features omelets and a burger for under €7, and they also have a pretty copious brunch for under €20 — a rarity in Paris these days.
With rooms starting at $120 and excellent user reviews, Hotel des Arts is a cheapo favorite. Photo: EuroCheapo
Stay in the neighborhood
If you want to stay in Montmartre, there are plenty of options. From the Hotel Audran and Hotel des Arts to the lovely Ermitage Sacre Coeur, there are definite perks to staying in the district. It’s accessible to most of the sights in the northern end of the city and is a quick metro ride on line 12 to the center to reach the Louvre, the Latin Quarter, and other attractions. (See all recommended budget hotels in Montmartre.)
Even though Montmartre has scrubbed up a bit since its days as an artists’ haven, there are still plenty of quaint streets and cute areas to discover during a day wandering this historic district.
Your favorite Montmartre spots
Do you love exploring Montmartre? Tell us your favorite spots in the comments section below!
About the author
We usually stay in the upper part of Montmartre, the Clignancourt district near Jules Joffrin metro.
Two excellent bakeries: Pain d’Antan, 2 rue Eugène Sue, which has excellent whole-grain breads as well as the ‘usual assortment,’ and Landemaine, at 4 rue du Poteau, just by the station. Also excellent bread and extraordinary Viennoiserie.
Still in the general neighborhood, for a meal:
Atelier Ramey, 23 rue Ramey (18e) A neighborhood bistro with high aspirations, but no fuss. Small plates as well as dinners. Can be busy on the weekend, so reservations are a good idea. Extremely friendly owner and staff.
And a bit further down the slope, near Abbesses:
Creperie Broceliande, 15 rue Trois Frères (18e) Small place, relatively inexpensive. Wonderful savory buckwheat crepes with varied fillings, and dessert crepes as well. If you’re fond of Breton cider (my wife is, I’m not) it’s a good spot for that, too.
Thanks for sharing your favorite spots! We can’t wait to try them out on our next trip.
We like spending the day or night, for hotels are often quite reasonable’ in the Pigalle district right below Montmartre. Catch a view of Paris as seen through the eyes of the working class Parisian. No lack of laundromats here. Right down the street you might find a sidewalk restaurant where you can wait for that suitcase of dirty clothes to wash and dry. Of course you haven’t been intimidated at the laundromat. Used to foreign visitors, the instructions on the wall are usually translated into English. A friendly neighborhood lady might help you. At the restaurant there’s simply no need to hurry, street watching is an art in this city. Sit back and survey the street scene. You’ve often seen it in paintings. Slowly slip your coffee, munch on a croissant, and watch street lights extinguish as darkness lifts. Car engines start up, quietly to American ears, as people head off to work. Sounds are muted as people enter the metro. You might conclude Paris often feels… timeless.
Had a great day at Sacre Coeure and Place de Terte a few years back.Brought sketched portrait of my wife and I Then brought a baguette and a coke and sat on the steps of the Sacre Coeure and people watched.
It was great-even a juggler
My favorite place is a little garden up the hill by the smaller church, you are right across from place de Terre… there were lovely birds , the garden was quiet and an old fashioned water fountain which was great to fill my bottle
I could hear the excitement of the tourists while taking a peaceful break
We liked the street performers on the steps up to Sacre Coeur, but for us the highlight was the wonderful gentleman mime in white who greeted all tippers will a warm display of thanks. We could have watched him for hours!
Stayed in Montmartre 2 weeks ago via WaytoStay. Nice apt on rue Abesses. The prize winning bakery has the best pastry I tasted in 7 days all over Paris. The baguette was only €1 and was plenty for breakfast or lunch for two persons.
I do disagree about Coquelicot. We went there for breakfast our first day and found it very crowded with mostly tourists. The food was “mwah” and even though we asked twice for coffee in a mug, we still received it in a soup bowl, which is fine but not what we asked for. The French people who sat next to us waited almost 30 mins and no wait staff ever came over to take their order and they finally walked out. Save your money and get some bread and pastries from the bakery, some fruit and fresh juice from the nice grocer on the corner and dine in style.
ONE of my absolute favorite experiences in Montmartre was spending a “night of adoration” at Sacre Coeur paying something like 20-25 euros in 2014 for a small modern room, a simple supper and breakfast. I signed up for the midnight hour of prayer and sitting in silence with the dozen strangers was magical. Though I knew little French and the sisters, no English, it worked. A nice French family took me under their wing at meals. It was disheartening to leave the guest house and return to being merely a tourist in the beautiful basilica.