Arriving by ferry to Portovenere. All photos: Craig Nelson

Tiny but beautiful, Portovenere makes for a memorable waterfront escape in Italy. Popular with Italian tourists who want a little sun and sand, this enchanting village is much more affordable than other popular oceanside jewels like the Amalfi Coast and nearby Cinque Terra.

And speaking of Cinque Terra, you can use Portovenere as your launch or endpoint for this incredibly popular destination. A night in Portovenere will give you enough time to see everything in town, but we really suggest at least two nights. That way, you can spend a whole day just relaxing on the beach.

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Tips for visiting Portovenere on a budget

Like any seaside vacation spot in Italy, it’s easy to spend a lot of money in Portovenere if you don’t plan ahead. Use this guide to help you save on everything from hotels to dining out at the best local restaurants.

When to visit Portovenere

If you can come in the late spring or early fall, you’ll find a warm and sunny destination with half of the crowds. During our visit in late May, the temperatures were in the 80s and people were soaking up the sun everywhere you looked. Of course, if you insist on a summer seaside getaway, you’ll pay for it with much higher hotel rates — if you can even find a room.

Getting to Portovenere

By boat

The nearest train station is in La Spezia (about 15 km away), so the only way to visit Portovenere is by bus, taxi, or boat. The easiest way to reach Portovenere is by ferry. It’s also the most fun! You can hop on a boat right along the waterfront in La Spezia (about a 15-minute walk from the train station). The ride is quite lovely and ends with a spectacular entrance to Portovenere. The ferry lets you off just a short stroll from the city center. Not bad for only €6.

If you are coming from the north via Cinque Terra, there are ferries from Monterosso, Vernazza, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. Just note that the ferries only run from late March to early November. You can check excellent website A Path To Lunch has the latest information for Cinque Terra and Portovenere ferries. or you can check the official tourism website for the Golfo dei Poeti.

By bus

The cheapest way to get from La Spezia to Portovenere is by bus. Fares are around €3 for the journey that takes about half an hour.

Not bad! The view from Room 535 at Affittacamere La Lanterna.

Cheap hotels in Portovenere

Booking ahead is key to securing a room in Portovenere. The summer and holiday weekends fill up fast, so either come during the shoulder season or book way in advance.

Affittacamere La Lanterna
Via Giovanni Cappellini 27

On a recent trip, we rented a room at Affittacamere La Lanterna, accessible right on the main drag of Portovenere, Via Capellini. We rang a buzzer and a kind elderly woman smiled down from a few floors up and came down to let us in. After she showed us to our room, we threw open the window shutters to reveal an amazing view of the water. Room 535 also had a tiny balcony where we sipped a bottle of Ligurian rose and watched people swim and sunbathe. The price for this wonderful experience? Only €81 per night! We stayed on a Sunday night, so we were able to save on a weekend rate and the village was a little less busy than usual for a sunny spring weekend. Read more about our stay at Affittacamere La Lanterna.

A few other options in Portovenere to consider include Affittacamere La Darsena (Via Giovanni Cappellini 27) and the affordable Hotel Belvedere with private rooms and panoramic gulf views.

Search over 100 hotels and vacation rentals in Portovenere

San Pietro Church is dramatically built out over the sea.

Free things to do in Portovenere

Jutting out from the rugged Ligurian coast, Portovenere offers incredible scenery everywhere you look. Many of the attractions are perched high above the sea offering countless opportunities for that perfect vacation photo. We took a stroll around town to find our favorite activities that won’t cost you a single euro.

Visit San Pietro Church

We’ve been to a lot of churches in Europe, but this is near the top of the list for jaw-dropping locations. Nestled on a rock jutting out into the Ligurian Sea, San Pietro Church offers sweeping views of Palmaria Island to the south and the Cinque Terra to the north.

Be like a local and find a sunny spot on one of the free beaches in Portovenere.

Relax in the sun

There are a few free beaches within walking distance of the main drag of Portovenere. If you’re staying in the main part of town, you can also just get some sun just steps from the main shopping street. Our tip: Bring a towel and do what the locals do — layout on the stone pier and take a quick dip when you get too hot. There is a ladder into the water, so you can get in and out without too much trouble. If you want an umbrella or a little more space, you can upgrade to one of the private beaches in Portovenere.

People taking a dip in the spectacular waters of Byron’s Grotto.

Byron’s Grotto

This gorgeous cove is probably what you dream of when you think of the rugged coastline of Liguria. We didn’t dare climb down to test our rock jumping skills, but the view of the turquoise waters from high up was more than enough of a thrill.

Stroll down Via Capellini

The main thoroughfare through Portovenere, Via Capellini is lined with shops selling everything from affordable souvenirs to gourmet food shops offering jars of homemade pesto. Most of the restaurants here offer classic Ligurian cuisine at a decent price. Why is food cheaper on this street? The tables here don’t have the view like the ones right on the waterfront.

Affordable restaurants in Portovenere

Seafood is the main attraction here, but just be careful where you end up dining. Those waterfront patios sure are lovely, but that view will cost you. And high prices don’t always mean delicious food. There is a Conad Supermarket (via Giuseppe Garibaldi, 7) to pick up provisions, but it’s closed on Sundays, so make sure to plan ahead if you desire a Sunday afternoon picnic by the water.

We love a good nautical-themed restaurant and Antica Osteria del Carugio fits the bill!

Antica Osteria del Carugio
Via Capellini, 66

Attracting locals and tourists alike, Antica Osteria del Carugio is a classic spot to taste the local seafood specialties. A liter of house wine will set you back €8, while a heaping plate of pasta with fresh anchovy sauce is €9. The staff is full of characters, and there’s almost no way you’ll leave without a smile on your face or a good story to tell back home. This is old-world dining where the waiters take their time, so don’t come if you’re in any kind of rush. If you’re lucky, they might even pull out a saxophone and keyboards to play a few tunes as the night moves on. Yes, Antica Osteria is exactly that kind of place.

Portivene Un Mare di Sapori
Via Capellini, 94/98

Another local restaurant that we like is Portivene Un Mare di Sapori. It literally translates to “a sea of flavors”, and after a few bites, you’ll see that they chose the name. The prices are a little higher, but the quality more than makes up for it. The seafood is fantastic with the mussels and octopus as standouts. If you are just beginning your trek in Liguria, make sure to try the pasta with pesto. Check out their Facebook page for more info.

Boats line the waterfront in scenic Portovenere.

Have you been to Portovenere? Tell us what you did during your stay in the comments below.