Spain Off the Beaten Path: A Cheapo Guide to Teruel

large, ornate outdoor staircase
A grand staircase in Teruel. Photo: Jocelyn Erskine-Kellie

Spain is widely known as a budget traveler’s paradise. The only downside? Sometimes things can get a little crowded, especially if you follow the well-traveled path and flit between much-lauded destinations like Madrid, Barcelona, San Sebastian, and Santiago de Compostela.

Don’t get us wrong. Come high season, these places are full to brimming with visitors from around the world for a reason. They’re remarkable destinations that deserve a few days (or longer if you’ve got time) on your Spanish itinerary.

But just because certain European destinations are wildly popular doesn’t mean they’re the best choice for every kind of traveler. Often, places not even on most travelers’ radar hold the most appeal for the lowest prices. In Spain, Teruel is one such place.

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Visiting Teruel, Spain on a Budget

Teruel Province in Northeastern Spain is so under the radar that its unofficial tourism slogan is “Teruel existe,” which translates to “Teruel exists”.  The slogan is a not-so-friendly nod to the fact that the region is much neglected when it comes to tourism funds from the central government in Madrid, at least in the eyes of locals.

Getting there and getting Around

About three hours by car from Madrid and a little over four hours from Barcelona, Teruel isn’t as well connected by Spain’s rail network as Catalonia or Andalusia. In fact, one of our favorite driving games, when we’re in this area, is spotting the unfinished railway stations that pepper the landscape.

Wherever you’re headed, taking a bus is generally the cheapest option by a few euros — starting at around €20 each way from Madrid and €30 from Barcelona. Trains, where available, run roughly twice that price. If you’re traveling in a small group, renting a car will save you money and offer the most flexibility in seeing this sparsely populated part of Spain.

Related: 10 Tips for renting and a driving a car in Spain

While we’re all for hopping trains and buses, in this particular case, we’d recommend renting a car even if you’re traveling alone — depending on public transportation will really limit what you’re able to see. So unless you plan on parking yourself in a charming village for the entirety of your trip, grab a cheap rental and head for the open road.

What to see and do on the cheap

Much of what’s worth seeing in this part of Spain comes at no charge to anyone who bothers to make the trip. Hike rocky hills, walk across Valderrobres’ Gothic bridge over the Matarranya River or climb up to the Moorish castle at the center of the village of Albarracín. The spectacular architecture that combines Gothic and Islam design is always free to look at. Read on for a few of our top picks for your time in Teruel.

Valderrobres

Wander one of Spain’s prettiest pueblos in Valderrobres. Perched on a hilltop with a castle at the crest, this is the perfect place to spend a few hours or days wandering cobblestone streets — particularly in the spring and summer when roses and flowering plants climb up rock stairs and walls in the old town. If you end up here and aren’t sure if what you’re hearing in the streets is Spanish, it’s probably not. Because of its proximity to Catalonia, locals here speak a dialect of Catalan.

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Albarracín

Explore Northern Spain’s Moorish heritage in Albarracín. Granada isn’t the only place in Spain with a storied Moorish history — and the Moorish buildings in the walled city of Albarracín are lasting proof of just how far north the Al-Andalus kingdom reached during its zenith. Beyond the beautiful castle, the Alcazar, there are also two massive towers that stand watch over this historic town, the Andador Tower and Doña Blanca Tower.

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Hike through history

Want to take a hike with some history? Choose a chunk of the route Cid the conqueror is thought to have taken through Teruel in the Middle Ages. You can plot out a bike route, too. For maps and detailed route information, check out en.caminodelcid.org.

Torico Teruel

The tiny statue of Torico, the city’s bull mascot. Photo: Manuel

Explore the center of Teruel

Pay your respects to one of Spain’s smallest bull statues in Teruel. Pose for pictures with Torico, the city’s tiny bull mascot, placed on top of a tall column in the main plaza. After that, head for the Amantes Mausoleum. Ever wondered what would have happened in Romeo and Juliet if those two crazy kids had been obedient? Apparently, things would have gone just as poorly — or so the local story goes. Girl and Boy fall in love. Parents don’t approve. No one breaks the rules but everyone ends up dead anyway. At any rate, the Mausoleum with its beautiful funerary art, and the full story are worth a little of your time.

Cheap eats in Teruel

Hearty, meat-heavy dishes are the norm here, but typical tapas and cuisines from elsewhere in Spain are widely available, too. Food prices aren’t necessarily lower than in other regions, but portion sizes are typically a lot larger.

Travelers that want to try local specialties should look for conserva (charcuterie packed in oil), roasted young goat and lamb, Calanda peaches, black truffles, and local sweet specialties like tortas de alma, little half-moon pastries stuffed with candied pumpkin or cheese filling.

Hotel Torico Plaza

Enjoy views of the Mudejar Tower of El Salvador when you stay at Sercotel Torico Plaza.

Budget hotels in Teruel

For the best prices on clean and basic rooms with a private bath, keep an eye out for pensiones and smaller family-run hotels. Prices start at around €50 per night. A bunk in a hostel dorm averages around €15 a night. If you’re traveling with family or a large group look into casas rurales, country homes available for rent in rural areas with prices starting at about €20 per night per person.

We like the Sercotel Torico Plaza located right in the city center with spacious rooms starting around €70 or Hotel Reina Christina where you can get a room with a contemporary decor, Wi-Fi, and a balcony for under €100.

Search for budget accommodations in Teruel, Spain. We have over 100 hotels and other lodgings to choose from.

Have you been to Teruel? Let us know what you did during your visit in the comments below.

About the author

Chris Ciolli

Chris Ciolli is a writer, translator and editor from the American midwest who’s been living in the Mediterranean for more than a decade. From her home base in Barcelona she writes about food, culture and travel in Catalonia, Spain and the rest of the world. Her work has been featured on AFAR.com, LaVanguardia.com, and Fathomaway.com. Between projects, Chris paints, makes jewelry, writes about her book addiction at Read.Learn.Write and muses about the traveling life at her blog, Midwesterner Abroad.

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One thought on “Spain Off the Beaten Path: A Cheapo Guide to Teruel”

  1. Very good article! Teruel and its province were indeed deserving a well-written report like yours, aimed at the discerning and keen traveller.

    Cuenca and its region do also deserve a visit. This is another somewhat underrated spot that you can reach in less than two hours from Madrid, via the high-speed train (departing from Atocha and arriving at the out-of-town station). Cuenca’s old town is one of the prettiest and most striking urban settings in Spain – and has a definitely laid back mood. The surrounding mountains and scenery are also stunningly beautiful.

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